Letter from Berlin

 

When you view German painting and sculpture created from the late 1800's to 1930's you get a sense of German culture.  Through a series of "successions" from the formal art academies, young German artists sought to align themselves with the modernists and the innovations of impressionism, cubism and abstract art that had exploded in throughout Europe.  However, after viewing the exhibition at the Bröhan Museum, we concluded that these artists were unable to imbue their work with the light and freshness, clarity and color purity of non-German artists at that time.  We sensed a seriousness or darkness that pervaded the work.  None of it made me embrace the art; rather it made me study it, not experience it.  Instead, where Germans succeeded above others was in crafts and fine arts-- Bauhaus, Art Nouveau and Art Deco design, all innovative styles in the building or construction of things.  German furniture and fixtures, where function and form combine, are a joy to sit in, touch and experience.

To understand more about the Berlin psyche, see "Bridge of Spies", a story of the cold war reality of a divided Berlin.  The devastation of Nazi rule and allied bombing of the city, the post WWII Soviet occupation and blockade, the East Berlin dictatorship with its Stasi police that spied on and terrorized East Berliners and the Wall that separated them from freedom resulted in over 250,000 tortured and almost 16,000 dead between 1946 to 1989.  This is the underlying cultural legacy of Berlin.  It is a city of people weary of secrets and guns who demand openness, personal privacy, freedom to act and commitment to democratic and transparent government.  It is why Germany took in a million Syrian refugees escaping the terrorism and destruction of the Assad regime in this past two years.  Freedom is precious for Berliners know what is it like not to have it.

For generations to come, Berliners will remind themselves of this dark past through its museums and memorials. The Holocaust Memorial starkly plants you amid coffin like gray granite blocks taking you into dark depths of isolation and unexpected fear of what is next around the corner.  Portions of the Wall has been preserved.  Tall iron posts the height of the wall mark where it once stood across the city.  The Stasi Prison conducts tours, some guided by former prisoners, to explain the physical and mental brutality of the Stasi against its own people.  The DDR Museum is dedicated to East Berlin life, the good, the bad and the very ugly.

The fastest growing and most energetic sector of Berlin in the former East Berlin where our friends Liz and Piotr live with their young daughter.  New construction and rehabilitation of old buildings for offices, apartments and retail space proliferate because there is open and re-purposed land ready for expansion.  All of Berlin is connected by an complete transportation system of affordable trams, underground subways and above ground trains and buses.  We traveled on all during our week visit.  

Living in Berlin is affordable with solid modern housing, excellent government supported childcare and support for families, placing a high value on free education from preschool through university.  Food is affordable and there is nothing better than the breads and pastries.  Bakeries are everywhere. I'm talking about flaky, delectable, light and not overly sweet cream puffs, croissants, eclairs, cakes, tarts, waffles, and custards displayed next to savory scones, puff pastries, and other edible delights.  Local cuisine focuses on cabbage dishes (sour krauts), warm potato salads, snitchzels, sausages, and goulashes or stews (meat, potatoes and vegetables in a gravy sauce).  To augment their crispy potato pancakes are crisp on the outside and creamy on the inside frites, sturdier than those of the French.  The food reminded me of my mother's cooking which she learned from her mother and grandmother.

The challenge we learned is the every day bureaucracy that has yet to be modernized and streamlined to support the rapidly expanding modern, technology adept population.  For example, to get your car registered and your drivers license, you must must go to multiple bureaus and private offices.  For exmaple, in Decmeber, you need to stand in line for an appointment to get processed.  The first opening are in February.  As Piotr said, "It makes American DMVs look like heaven."  

What we loved about Berlin was being outside, despite the cold weather.  In late November and December leading up to Christmas, there is a Winter Christmas Market in almost every Platz (Plaza).  The protestant religion is state supported so the markets are unabashedly Christian Christmas celebrations.  Markets are dressed in lights, have dozens of tents and stands offering grilled foods, pastries, mulled wines, beers and coffees, gifts and crafts of all sorts.  But, in my opinion, besides the entertainment stages, the best fun is had on the Ferris wheels, ponies and other rides for the kids that bring a holiday carnival atmosphere to the markets.  Berliners take their winter holidays seriously, rain, shine or snow.

With the euro at only $1.10, it is a good time to visit Berlin.  Just bring your woolly mittens, hat and warm clothes.  Our visit was special because our friends, Liz and Piotr, not only gave us shelter, helped us get oriented, joined us for some of our touring, but they also gave us valuable insights into the everyday life of living and working in Germany.  This city has energy.  It's a great place for young people to live, have children and do well. 
Aufwiedersehen!